Words, Words, Words:
A Driving Tour of Literary Experiences

This driving tour of Washtenaw County will introduce you to just a few of the literary figures who have made our corner of the state their home. In the process, we hope that our visitors will discover just a few of the many attractions that this area has to offer to book lovers. Even residents may discover some that they have missed!

Whether you're interested in books, in plays, or in the people who write them, you'll find something new and interesting along this tour. To keep everybody happy, we've also included just a few of the many great places to have a snack or a meal, do some shopping, or even spend the night in Washtenaw Country.

Depending on how long you want to spend at the various locations, expect this tour to take four to eight hours.

Ann Arbor

If Ann Arbor is known for one thing, it is as the home of the University of Michigan. The presence of the university (and its more than 35,000 students) is responsible for much of the vitality that marks this exciting city, and it is the university that has attracted so many of the literary giants that you will be meeting on this tour. But all residents, from students to retirees, enjoy the intellectual stimulation and the world class cultural events that the university attracts. High-tech companies are discovering Ann Arbor as well, drawn by its unique atmosphere that combines the ease of living in a small town with the social and cultural opportunities of a metropolis.

1. Robert Frost
Robert Frost, considered by many to be America's finest poet, spent several years in Ann Arbor. He came to campus in 1921 as Writer-in-Residence; his job, as he described it, was "to do my own work and radiate poetic atmosphere for the university." In 1923, he completed the book that brought him his first Pulitzer Prize, New Hampshire, and he formed strong ties to the students and faculty. In 1925, ill and missing his New England farm, he left the University. He retained a strong affection for both the city and the school. "I like Michigan people and I like Michigan," he wrote to a friend.

Drive by the small, cedar-sided, Prairie-style house at 1223 Pontiac Trail (a private residence). It is in one of the oldest areas of the city (which first grew up on the north side of the Huron River) and the home actually rests on the cellar foundations of the handsome old Greek revival house that Frost occupied during his stay in Ann Arbor. You can visit that older house at Henry Ford Museum & Greenfield Village (where it is known as "Ann Arbor House"). It was moved there not because of its association with Frost, but because it is such a fine example of colonial architecture.

Almost 20 years later another poet, W.H. Auden, spent his first year in Ann Arbor in the house that currently stands on the site. Some years after he left, the landlord, Jean-Paul Slusser, confided to a friend that while he was cleaning out the house he found a big brown grocery bag in the basement, stuffed with scribbled scraps of paper and corrected manuscripts. "I took it upstairs and burned the whole lot," he said, adding that perhaps that hadn't been such a good idea.

2. Arthur Miller
Arthur Miller, one of the nation's premier playwrights, is a 1938 graduate of the University of Michigan and a two-time winner of its prestigious Hopwood Award. He wrote his first play (The Grass Still Grows) during spring break in 1935, while he was a sophomore, and his second (Honors at Dawn) the following year. The University actually turned him down for admission twice before a sympathetic dean gave him a chance, despite his poor high school record. Arriving in Ann Arbor by bus, Miller fell in love with the place. Ever afterward he credited the University with making him a writer, returning to the campus many times. In October, 2000, in celebration of his 85th birthday, the University held an international symposium on his work and broke ground for a new theater that will be named after him.

The big plain white house at 411 North State (a private residence), a few blocks north of Huron, is where Miller lived during his sophomore year. Standing in front of the house, looking back up the hill toward campus, you can almost picture the excited 20-year-old running toward campus in the middle of the night after finishing his first play, filled with elation and the sense that he had found his destiny.

Next, check out progress on construction of the Walgreen Drama Center which will house the 600-seat Arthur Miller Theater as well as several smaller student repertory theaters. The complex is expected to be completed in 2002 or 2003. It will be located on Huron Street, just behind the existing Power Center for the Performing Arts-a complement to the U-M performing arts corridor that already includes Hill Auditorium, Rackham Auditorium, the Mendelssohn Theater, and the Power Center.

3. W.H. Auden
Wystan Hugh Auden, poet, playwright, and literary critic, taught in the U-M English Department in 1941 and 1942. In 1946, he became an American citizen in the old courthouse that once stood on Huron Street, sponsored by his good friend, Albert Stevens.

After living for a year at 1223 Pontiac Trail (see above), Auden moved to 1504 Brooklyn (a private residence) in Burns Park, a lovely old neighborhood that was (and still is) a favorite of many university faculty members. While the house was small, he described it as a "wonderful Victorian," and the "At-Homes" he held there for friends and students were very popular. Auden was openly homosexual, and during the spring of 1942 the neighborhood children sometimes tried to spy through the porch windows and back door, hoping to catch him and his friends dressing up in women's clothes. They were never successful, but it's said that Auden was quite amused by their fascination.

4. Fictional Ann Arbor
Over the years, many distinguished novelists, including Nicholas Delblanco, have made Ann Arbor their home, while others like Joyce Carol Oates, Kurt Vonnegut and Jerzy Kosinski have spent shorter periods of time on the U-M campus. Charles Baxter, author of the acclaimed recent best-seller, The Feast of Love, is a professor in the English Department. The book is set in Ann Arbor and beautifully evokes the special ambiance of the city.

When the author/narrator takes a late-night stroll as The Feast of Love begins, his first stop is Michigan Stadium. The "Big House" on the corner of Main Street and Stadium Blvd. was built in 1927 at a cost of close to a million dollars, and originally had seating for about 84,000 fans. When it was built, it was the largest college-owned stadium in the country, and many expansions and renovations have kept it in that number one spot. Current seating is 107,501. Unlike Charles Baxter's character, you can't enter the stadium in the middle of the night, but it is open for visitors on weekdays from 7:30 am to 3:30 pm; it is closed on weekends.

Baxter's friend and fellow insomniac, Bradley, works in a coffee shop in Briarwood Mall, between State and Main Streets, just north of I-94. Ann Arbor's only completely enclosed mall, Briarwood houses four department stores, many enticing specialty shops, and a variety of tempting eateries - but alas, that coffee shop is no longer there. While you're there, you can stop by Borders Express to catch up on the latest best selling titles, along with hundreds of other books for children and adults.

Briarwood
636 Briarwood Circle (at Eisenhower Parkway and South State St.),
734-669-0785

5. Mysterious Ann Arbor
Ann Arbor has been a featured location in mystery stories for more than half a century, most recently in books by Susan Holtzer and Jerry Prescott. One of the best mysteries set in the city is Maze, written in 1982 by A.H. Garnet (the pseudonym for two long-time university professors), which opens with the discovery of a body in the Lawyers' Club oven and ends with a hair-raising chase through the organ pipes and across the catwalk above the green dome that arches over Hill Auditorium. Unfortunately, neither location is open to the public, but the buildings themselves are worth a visit.

The Law Quadrangle, a two-block-square at the corner of South State Street and South University, is by far the most imposing and, many would say, the most beautiful building on the University's Central Campus. The gift of a distinguished alumnus, William Wilson Cook (Law, 1882), it was begun in 1923 and completed a decade later. In addition to the Lawyers' Club, the great Gothic quadrangle houses dormitories, classrooms, and the extraordinarily beautiful Law Library.

Enter the quad through one of the three passageways leading from South University, and don't forget to notice the amusing corbels by sculptors Ulysses Ricci and Angelo Zari. In the west passage, nearest State Street, four corbels represent Military Science, Medical Science, Engineering/Commerce, and Astronomy. In the center, the first six U-M presidents - Henry Tappan, Erastus Haven, Henry Frieze, Harry Hutchins, James Angell, and Marion Burton - watch over pedestrians. The east passage has no fewer than twelve corbels: four seasons in harvests, the four seasons at U-M in sports; and four professions - engineer, architect, artist, and jurist. Cross the quad and go into the Library Reading Room, a space so imposing that it's reminiscent of a Gothic cathedral. As you leave the library, turn right and walk around behind it. There you can look down at the ultramodern library addition, built underground so as not to interfere with the unique architecture of the Law Quad.

Completed in 1913, Hill Auditorium, on the corner of North University and North Thayer, has been home to thousands of School of Music and University Musical Society concerts. Arthur Hill wanted the building to be used "for the gathering of students and college body, and their friends," and his wishes have certainly been met. Glee club concerts, orchestras, bands, plays, individual speakers, commencements, and the May Festivals have all utilized the building. The 4,300-seat auditorium is renowned for its superior acoustics; the stage itself can seat 300 people. Call the box office 734-764-8350 for a listing of events in Hill, many of which are free and open to the public.

6. Especially for Bibliophiles
If you like looking at beautiful and/or rare books and papers, don't miss the exhibits at the University's Harlan Hatcher Graduate Library and William L. Clements Library.

The Graduate Library sits in the middle of Central Campus, on the Michigan Diag, looking north up the mall to the equally imposing Rackham School of Graduate Studies. As the University's primary research collection for the humanities and social sciences, it houses some 2.5 million volumes, not counting an outstanding collection of maps and a comprehensive collection of East Asian materials. Go up the front steps from the Diag into the north lobby, where you will almost always find an interesting book-related exhibit in the showcases that line the walls. Then take an elevator to the seventh floor, to the Department of Rare Books and Special Collections. There, you will find fascinating exhibits on topics like "From Papri to King James: The Evolution of the English Bible." The area, which is free and open to the public, is open Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm; Saturday 10 am - noon. For information, call 734-764-9377.

The Clements Library, at 909 South University next to the President's House, holds original resources for the study of American history and culture from the 15th to the early 20th century. Drawing on the wealth of material in its collections, the library presents regular exhibits in the Main Hall, offering unique views of American history from the Age of Discovery to the present day. The free exhibits are open weekdays from 1 pm to 4:45 pm, and the public is always welcome. For information, call 734-764-2347.

7. Wallace House
Each year, some of the outstanding journalists in the nation are invited to spend an eight-month sabbatical at the University of Michigan. There, without the pressure of deadlines, they can take classes, attend seminars with other prominent journalists, and indulge in study and reflection. Drive by the graceful, spacious house at 620 Oxford. Donated by CBS newsman Mike Wallace and his wife, Mary, the comfortable house, with its elegant garden, serves as the Fellows headquarters in Ann Arbor.

8. Create Your Own Book
Hollanders, on the second level of the Kerrytown Shops & Marketplace, holds a treasure trove of materials for anyone who has ever dreamed of writing their own book-or of decorating one. The beautifully arranged shop features a host of blank books will appeal to every age and every taste - whether for your day-to-day jottings or for the beginnings of the next Great American Novel. Most amazing is the collection of art books, beautifully (and sometimes fantastically) bound and decorated by local artists. These wonderful creations are actually for sale, but anyone can come and look, and get inspiration for their own projects. There's even a book repair kit for do-it-yourselfers. A word of warning: the store also has a virtually irresistible collection of cards and handmade papers!

Chelsea

Drive west from Ann Arbor on I-94, to M-52 (exit 159), then north to the charming town of Chelsea. With its lovely downtown buildings (including a European style clock tower), its tree-lined streets, and well-preserved old homes, Chelsea's friendly, small-town Midwestern atmosphere is attracting a growing number of refugees from the city. Its bustling downtown area attests to its new popularity.

1. Jeff Daniels
Washtenaw County's very own-and very successful-playwright is Jeff Daniels. Since its opening in 1991, his nationally acclaimed Purple Rose Theatre has entertained nearly 160,000 people, attracting visitors who have never heard of Chelsea before. Daniels, who long dreamed of starting a professional, non-profit theater that would allow Michigan residents to see live theatre at affordable prices, purchased an old downtown bus garage, renovated it at his own expense, and covered most of the early start-up costs. The theatre is committed to developing plays by Midwestern playwrights and supporting theatre professionals from the Midwest.

It's worth going to a Purple Rose production just to experience the theatre's ambiance. With seats on three sides of the stage and a total capacity of just 168, audiences-especially those in the front rows-often feel they are part of the action. The theater was recently renovated, with a new façade, lobby area, and office space. Apart from the addition of a few more seats, however, the intimate theatre space itself has remained the same. The theatre presents its innovative productions year 'round.

137 Park St, Chelsea, 734-475-7902

2. Sleeping Bear Press
If you love golf you probably are familiar with Sleeping Bear Press, founded in 1994 and known for its high-quality golf books. Since its inception, the company has expanded to take on books related to other sports, regional titles having to do with Michigan, and most recently, several wonderful children's books, including The Legend of the Sleeping Bear. There are no production facilities to visit, but you can see and buy Sleeping Bear books at their Chelsea offices during regular business hours.

310 North Main St., Chelsea, 734-475-4411

3. Common Grill
People drive from Ann Arbor to Chelsea just to lunch at Craig Common's landmark restaurant, the Common Grill (where Jeff Daniels can often be found dining). And now, Chelsea's most famous restaurant owner has published his own cookbook, The Common Grill Cookbook. Published in November 2000, it may not be great literature, but it certainly provides great eating. One reviewer said, "This is a lovely book peppered with beautiful photos and packed with recipes that are quite straightforward, comprehensible and various. Don't forget to look down at the very bottom of the pages-many recipes have wine selections or a quick bit of information included down there." The cookbook is widely available in bookstores.

112 South Main, Chelsea, 734-475-0470

Saline

Settled in 1825, Saline drew its name was from a natural salt well in the area. Today, it is a popular, rapidly growing community with a thriving downtown section. For many years, Ann Arbor has been the entertainment destination for people from Saline; today, the traffic is almost as likely to be heading in the other direction!

1.Calico Cat Book and Gift Shoppe
This charming little bookstore and collectibles shop is a destination for many county residents. Much of its attraction comes from its location, in a 100-year-old church. The red brick building, with its cut stone façade, broad stone archway, and tower is imposing enough. Inside, a wide stairway leads to the lower level, which holds the books. The beautifully restored and maintained oak fixtures, the great oak arch, and the original stained glass windows make this a relaxing and satisfying spot to spend an hour or so.

109 West Michigan Ave., 734-944-2242

2. Drowsy Parrot
Just on the other side of Michigan Avenue, in another historic building that was once the town library, is a coffee, sandwich, and pastry shop with a wonderful ambiance. Wooden bookshelves line the walls and an upper balcony level with additional tables overlooks all. The great coffee and pastries keep the locals coming, but the coffee shop also attracts out-of-towners from all over, drawn to its memorable location and atmosphere.

105 North Ann Arbor St., Saline, 734-429-8595

Ypsilanti

Drive east from Saline on Michigan Avenue, cross over the expressway, and soon you'll come to Ypsilanti, home of Eastern Michigan University. EMU was established as the Michigan Normal School in 1849-the first teacher's college west of the Allegheny Mountains-and its Creative Writing program is very highly regarded, with faculty members that include nationally recognized poets Clayton Eshleman and Janet Kauffman.

Ypsilanti boomed during World War II, when Henry Ford turned his auto manufacturing plant at Willow Run to building bombers instead of cars. Anne Morrow Lindbergh, wife of Charles Lindbergh and author of the best-selling book of essays, Gift from the Sea, lived in the Willow Run area while her husband was working as a test pilot at the plant. A much less famous woman, Harriette Simpson Arnow, also lived in the area while her husband worked at Willow Run. Arnow later turned the experience into the critically acclaimed novel, The Dollmaker, which was made into a movie starring Jane Fonda. It powerfully recounts the story of a young woman from rural Kentucky who encounters the urban North, and her struggles to hold her family together.

1. Ladies Literary Club
During the late 19th Century ladies literary clubs were all the rage. Most died out in the 1950s and 1960s, as the ladies started going to work, but the Ypsilanti club continues to this day. The group meets every month to hear programs on literary topics, presented in the beautiful Greek Revival building. The building, which was constructed prior to 1842 and purchased by the Ladies Literary Club in 1913, is considered a model of its kind. It is only open to visitors by appointment.

218 North Washington, Ypsilanti, 734-482-7615

2. Ladies Library
Not far from the Literary Club sits the Ladies Library, a wonderful brick Gothic Revival building that once housed the Ladies Library. Built in 1858 as a private residence, it was later willed to the Ladies Library Association-the ladies added the carved limestone sign above the door. At the turn of the century, the building was turned over to the City of Ypsilanti, and it served as the city's public library until the mid-1960s. After years of neglect, it was restored as today is privately owned. The building backs up to Riverside Park, with its walking paths along the Huron River-a pleasant place for a stroll or a quiet read.

130 North Huron, Ypsilanti